Travel Stories: Autumn in Istanbul (Part 1)

Write up and images by Sir Cheapskate.

This was something I always wanted to do; travel solo. It was also unprecedented that Istanbul was the city that I finally has the chance to do it.

Just before I came back home to Kuala Lumpur after 2-years of studying in Oxford, I decided to embark on one last chance of exploring Europe. Istanbul was my first stop out of the 14-days trip. This trip was held during Autumn of 2015.

I would say that I really did feel the city as a melting pot of Europe and Asia in terms of Architecture, Facilities, People and their social activities.

Accommodation: Antique Hostel Istanbul

My chosen accommodation was a hostel located within Sultanahmet called the Antique Hostel. Basically major historical and architectural attractions in Istanbul is located within Sultanahmet, which is the old heritage town.

This hostel was amazing because:

1. My dorm was quite a squeeze at the basement but the bathroom was so clean and private. Just like at home.

2. Reception was really helpful and chatty. Shout out to Yunus!

3. Common area and breakfast is located at top floor, with foldable windows all around so you can imagine how lit it would be during the summer.

4. Open rooftop offers the view of Marmara Sea.

5. Location is super close to a lot of museums and landmarks.

View from rooftop overlooking the Sea of Marmara.

Istanbul Museum Pass

I already planned to visit as much museums that I can, as I find this to be the most helpful when learning about how a city came about, especially Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire generally. Therefore, I searched for the Istanbul Museum Pass that covers all major museums at a lower cost rather than buying each ticket on its own.

This pass is valid for 5 days. Just nice for my trip. You can get this pass at any of the museums it covers or buy online. Also they have mobile sales vehicles all over. I bought mine right outside Hagia Sophia.

Read more about the pass at Turkey Travel Planner.

Hagia Sophia Museum

I wasted no time by diving straight to the main attraction that I was too eager to see. The magnificent Hagia Sophia.

How did I learn about this building? Well, I’m an Architect and Islamic Architecture was my favourite subject while studying.

A thorough security check later, I was inside.

Oh my Döner! I really had high expectation of this piece of history, but what I saw was beyond all that. I couldn’t stop looking up! There was too much to see and I found myself a bit overwhelmed even though half of the museum was closed for restoration.

This museum was initially a church during Byzantine era until Constantinople was seized by the Ottomans and turned into a mosque. The change of power can be seen through many details here such as;

1. A dais was clearly an addition of the Ottomans as seen by its orientation facing Mecca.

2. The huge plates written “Allah” and “Muhammad” and names of other Islamic caliphs were seen all around.

3. The now unraveled mosaic of Jesus Christ can be seen at the ceiling and walls on top floor. They used to be plastered by the Ottomans.

Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque)

Across the plaza outside Hagia Sophia is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque or also known as the Blue Mosque. What I took from this journey of crossing the plaza is that I was actually walking from one timeline to another.

The mosque was commenced by Sultan Ahmed I in the 1600s to stamp his place as the ruler of an empire and compliments the presence of Hagia Sophia like lovers.

Muslims can just skip the line and come into the prayer hall to pray. I chose to line up and enter like other visitors before coming into the prayer hall to pray. Just remember, like all mosques around the world, you cannot enter if you don’t cover up.

Some ginger guy helped capture my photo. But I was told that gingers have no soul?

Normal visitors are only allowed to view the mosque from the very end of the prayer hall. It was really packed and not so much room to admire the beauty. After getting all the photos I wanted from this end, I entered the prayer hall to pray and stayed for a solid hour in here to soak in its beauty.

My first focus was the chandeliers which are hung all the way from the ceiling down to just about 10-feet from the ground looking as though they are floating. So amazing. Only then I saw how blue the wall and ceiling is. That’s where they got the nickname of Blue Mosque. The wall and ceiling is lined up with blue Iznik tiles

Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum

Just across the Blue Mosque is this museum. I didn’t research anything about this museum, so I wasn’t sure what was inside.

There were a lot of carpets as I remembered and dark rooms. There were also great Islamic calligraphies, amazing tiles from way back.

What most shook me was a group artifacts in a darkened room with soft Quranic readings over the speaker. Apparently, these group of artifacts are well-kept prints of Prophet Muhammad PBUH such as strands of his beard from when he shaved and a rock of his footprint. These are exhibited as The Sacred Relics.

These are relics from the most influential person on earth and when I saw this, I couldn't think much. Was I really looking at the evidence of the Holy Prophet’s existence? What should I do now? Do I pray here? Am I really seeing this?

I learned later that this museum was once the palace of Ibrahim Pasha who was the vizier of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, and I was a big fan of Magnificent Century series. Can I call that my personal holy site?

END OF PART 1 OF 2.

- Sir Cheapskate