Travel Stories: Autumn in Istanbul (Part 2)

Write up and images by Sir Cheapskate.

The next day started moderately early, after breakfast.

I found this as a plus point for traveling alone; I'm on my own time and energy. I can skip meals to save money and I can rest and chill when I'm tired of walking. I can also walk anywhere without spending on transportation.

Just before entering the Topkapi Palace, I visited the Hagia Sophia Tombs which is a mausoleum for a few Ottoman Sultans and their families.

Topkapi Palace

This is a whole complex. It was the palace of Ottoman Sultans from when they conquered Constantinople until the abolishment of the monarchy by Mustafa Kemal Atartürk in 1922.

I dedicated a whole day for this visit because obviously it is huge and a lot to cover. I was particularly excited to see the architecture and intricate carvings as well as visit the Harem, where the wives and consorts of the Sultan dwell.

They organized the visit according to courtyards. There are four courtyards with greenery and pavilions.

Hagia Irene

This church was one of the few that wasn’t converted into a mosque. It was just opened to visitors a few months prior to my visit, after major restoration works.

It was quite serene as I was the only person inside there. I took the privilege to discover every inch and detail of its conservation works. Peaceful.

Harem

It’s amazing to learn how the Islamic system was applied to the empire. Harem was strictly forbidden to men as they house the ladies of the palace; the Queen Mother, Queen, consorts and other female slaves.

For the Harem, the rooms are the exhibits. What I learned from this part of the visit was how the Harem politics work.

Sacred Relics of Islam

Another building within the palace was dedicated to store and display sacred relics of Islam, where one are forbidden from photographing them.

Amongst the relics on display were Prophet Abraham’s Pot, Joseph’s Turban, Moses’s Staff, David’s Sword, scrolls belonging to John, and Muhammad’s footprint.

The View

Honestly I couldn’t remember much of my visiting order but I did remember the features of the pavilions in the courtyard.

These courtyards have the best view in Istanbul - the Bosphorus and sea of Marmara. What a panorama.

Tips: When traveling solo, ask a nearby Asian tourist to take your photo.

Spice Bazaar

It was very unfortunate for me that I wasn’t able to visit The Grand Bazaar because it was closed. Silly me for not researching about it first but this gives me another reason to come back to Istanbul and perhaps tour whole of Turkey.

But next to the Grand Bazaar I found super cheap döner that’s only 5 Turkish Lira.

I will particularly remember this 5 Lira Doner. This was the cheapest I could find.

I made way to the Spice Bazaar located close to Galata Bridge. Bought myself some turkish delights with a bargain and then tested some Turkish tea and safron.

Galata Bridge & Street Food

I hang out around here until sunset. I knew that I would get some nice photos here so I waited and occupied myself with watching boats and ferries gliding under the bridge and across the sea.

On the bridge, there were locals hanging out while fishing straight from the sea. Immediately after getting some fish, they would grill it and make a sandwich out of it and sell it on the spot. Basically the fish sandwich that you buy there is all fresh. This is the kind street food you should try.

Besides this fish sandwich, you will see a small mobile stall selling bagels or what the locals would call as Simit. Get that 2 Lira Simit on the go in the morning, or evening, or night or whenever you want because they are always hot! These stalls also sell corns.

Sema Dance at Hodjapasha

My perfect trip would consist a taste of the local culture through watching performance. I contemplated at first when I decided to go and watch a proper Sema dance, the one with the whirling dervishes.

This is what I have always wanted to see, much like the Flamenco is Andalucia. The Sema Dance is what I was always curious about.

I didn’t have much money on me but I was determined to go. I walked my ass to Hodjapasha without any reservation and just walked in to see if they have any tickets left. Lucky for me, there was one unclaimed reservation, so I paid around 60 Lira for it. They served coffee and tea prior to the show.

What was so great about watching people spinning around the room? Answer: EVERYTHING. EVERYTHING WAS GREAT.

The hall is a re-purposed old dome and intimate, making the acoustic sound euphoric. The lighting compliments the intimacy. These factors really help to step up the spirituality essence of Sema dance. The show lasted an hour and no photography and recording allowed.

That was a super liberating moment. I went out feeling too happy that I have fulfilled my trip as perfect as I could have done. I was ready to leave Istanbul and head for Athens the next morning.

I even stumbled upon another show which was open for public at a nearby restaurant. What a night that I even got a second chance to watch it again immediately.

Writing this post triggers a lot of feelings. I can’t wait to come back to Istanbul.

END OF PART 2 OF 2.

- Sir Cheapskate.